Just in case someone is interested - this is how it went.
(A somewhat abbreviated version for the
Parish magazine as so many people asked me but I had limited space)
It
is difficult to condense 4617 miles into around 700 words but I’ll give it a
go. The far north of France and the middle of Belgium really are very boring to
drive through but then came Germany. I just loved the chance to do 100mph on
the autobahns in the free speed sections though, to be honest, I was more
comfortable at 90mph. I glanced up occasionally to see beautiful Bavaria or
swapped driving with Richard! Next Austria – wonderful as ever and it has the
most impressive tunnels. Potter along at 80mph then down to 50mph and switch
the headlights on as you plunge into yet another one. Sometimes the road goes
into a narrowing gorge accompanied by a rail track but eventually the mountain
wins and it is another tunnel.
The first experience of Slovenia was
a most inviting open-air thermal pool just yards from the tent – perfect after 2½ days
driving. Heading for the coast we stopped off to go through a World Heritage
set of caves. Due to a lack of an internal sat-nav, we ended doing somewhat
more than the 600 steps advertised.
Out of Slovenia and into Croatia and
the amazing Adriatic coast with its mountains, steep valleys, forests, inlets,
islands and the blue, blue sea. We worked our way south along the coast,
although Croatia is incredibly bossy dictating our speed at every turn. Near
Sibenik we were travelling over what seemed like a flat plain with dry scrubby
vegetation when suddenly there was a great gash in the landscape where a river
had carved a deep gorge – the Krka National Park. It was great swimming in the
waterfalls at the bottom. The end of Croatia means Dubrovnik with its complete
set of city walls. These have enough steps to provide a thorough physiotherapy
session for anyone recovering from heart surgery - or anything else for that
matter. The fascinating city definitely needs more than one day!
It took less than that to cross
Montenegro, but then we couldn’t find Albania! Approaching the border crossing
with some trepidation we handed our passports up to the official at the window
of the Border Hut to get out of Montenegro. He passed them to the man at the
next window who returned them to us with a smile and we set off to look for
Albania. After about 6 miles and passing through a couple of villages we
realised that we had found it, and that the second window had been the dreaded
Albanian border post. We camped by the beautiful Lake Shkodra and after a day’s
rest drove the length of the country. This was perhaps not the best bit of
planning on the trip.
As we drove along on scruffy, untidy
roads and small sections of modern motorway we saw an odd mixture of an old,
undeveloped world and one that was rapidly trying to make it into the 21st
century. Teddy bears were tied to the reinforcement rods of unfinished
buildings to keep out the evil spirits. At the end of the day, which we had
found fascinating but exhausting, there was a final sting in the tail or more
to the point a bite in the Rottweiler. He was standing with his owner looking
at the famous Blue Eye Spring as I walked by. After wiping the blood away and
the four tots worth of alcohol that had been splashed over my hand as antiseptic,
at the nearest bar, we headed for Greece! Here our border luck continued - potential
rabies and tetanus not withstanding.
Northern Greece was straight out of
all the extolling travel brochures except that they don’t mention the lack of service
stations and their amenities on the first 200 miles of newly completed
motorway. The second half of the day was a little easier in that regard.
Finally into Turkey – some advice for
anyone following in our footsteps. The first part of European Turkey is gentle
hills and a lake or two and this lulls you into a false sense of security. Do
not, under any circumstances, arrive on the outskirts of sprawling Istanbul at
rush hour, especially if you have to find somewhere near one of the bridges
over the Bosphorus; also if you have a sat.nav. that takes more than two
seconds to ‘recalculate’ when you have gone wrong, yet again! We nearly went to
Asia instead of our son’s apartment but turned off just in time. Istanbul
itself is a whole new story – we had two weeks there.
After a cub camp with the
grandchildren on our final weekend we spent a night on the Black Sea coast to
recover – beautiful - then we set our sights on home. We must be charmed concerning
borders. Passing a 5-mile queue of lorries we wondered what awaited us but 15
minutes and we were through to Bulgaria. A night in rapidly developing Sophia
and we were on the road again right across Serbia (with almost no motorways),
through some attractive hills and just into Hungary. Most of Hungary is very
flat - at least the part we saw. This might be due to the Danube, which we kept
bumping into or rather, driving over. Lake Balaton had a very eerie feel as the
sky was grey and overcast and a mist swirled over the surface. A ferry took us to the northern shore and we
were soon at Héviz
and its extraordinary thermal lake. Serious looking Russians and Germans
peopled the 19th century spa, some areas of which felt as if things
hadn’t moved on since then. However, the warm lake water set us up nicely for
the final leg back into Austria and then home.
(Slightly more than 700 words but even so,
just a taste of our adventure!)
Nov 2013
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